In 2009, Rankin filmed a documentary for BBC Four about 7 influential beauty and fashion photographers who have evolved photography into what it is today. Rankin researched the icons, their outstanding photos and re-created some of the exemplary work in the contemporary, digital world.
Cecil Beaton
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| Rankin, 2009. Vogue, 1934. |
Flamboyant photographer Cecil Beaton created many Vogue covers throughout his career, specifically in the 'swinging sixties', with a 1932 Rolleiflex camera. This period camera had no mirror so the image would be upside for Beaton as he took the photo. Therefore, the set, model and style had to be extremely well thought out. Often with his photographs, all round lighting was used to create a light and subdued final image. In Beaton's 'White Panama Hat', I feel the the focus from the hat (the fashion piece for the cover of Vogue in 1934) is detracted and placed on the beauty of the model as the lighting and setup focuses the eye into the centre. In the documentary, Rankin initially attempted to re-create Beaton image with the period camera. As the process was lengthy and difficult, Rankin returned to his usual digital camera. The period photographic process had a slower pace and there is an emotional difference between the two models. The contemporary model Sophie Ellis-Bexter told Rankin she felt the dynamic behind the scenes of the period camera shoot changed and 'the film was a lot more quiet and tranquil'. The modern image shown above was used with a 21st century digital camera and takes the photos faster, making the image less emotive and stirring.
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| Vogue, 1950. Rankin, 2009. |
Erwin Blumenfeld
The influence of surrealism surrounded Blumenfeld's photography. Many of his portraits are distorted from variations of lighting concepts. The Vogue cover from 1950 optimises Blumenfeld's surreal imagery, and remains one of the most influential magazine covers of all time (the image was not edited in post production). Blumenfeld also has produced more Vogue covers than any other photographer of his time. The 1950 Vogue cover was originally taken in black and white but was bleached by Blumenfeld and was coloured by hand. Whilst researching Blumenfeld's image, Rankin reminds the audience that you 'do not question where the rest of the face is' and I completely agree. The image only contains her eye and lips but it still makes complete sense, showing how Blumenfeld's artistic approach is still effective for a beauty image to be used as the front page of a magazine.
Richard Avedon
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| Vogue, 1955. Rankin, 2009. |
Paris-based photographer Richard Avedon is another influential artist in the digital arts world. These two mirroring images show nature incorporated into the fashion industry. The original image created in 1955 by Avedon had elephants tied down with chains, whereas, the elephants in 2009 seem to be free (with zoo keepers outside calming and taming the mammals). Movement is a strong feature in Avedon's 'Dovima with Elephants' image and this is unusual within his work, with his usual focus being of beauty and celebrity portraits, making this photograph an extremely original and brave piece.
David Bailey
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| Vogue, 1962. Rankin, 2009. |
David Bailey always had bought great energy, life and charm to his photos. Rankin explains how his imagery has a 'sense of spontaneity'. In the Bailey's photograph for Vogue, he used Jean Shrimpton (his lover at the time) as his model and only used a large piece of cardboard to create the wind demonstrated in her 'hair flick'. Her stature and flowing hair is iconic but does not detract from her beautiful profile. Rankin re-created this image with his model girlfriend and used he used the same techniques to create the hair drop. Both images are similar and leave the emphasis on the models figure, pose and beauty.
Helmut Newton
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| Vogue, 1975. Rankin, 2009. |
Known for his provocative fashion imagery, Helmut Newton reinvented what fashion photograph suggests and represents. Often including women in their underwear, or sometimes in the nude, his style empowered women rather than objectifying them. He also perfected beauty portraits in his photography career. 'Rue Aubriot' presented in Vogue shows off this woman's height and an edge of masculinity, potentially suggesting the equality between men and women. The background streets also creates an intense, romantic, film-like setting to amplify the model's stature and importance.
Guy Bourdin
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Top: Vogue, 1970.
Bottom: Rankin, 2009. |
Guy Bourdin developed the stylising of sex through the seventies in a sophisticated way. His commercial images were adventurous, colourful and sexual but always had a feel of art within them. With Bourdin's lighting, the soft-boxes or spotlights would face directly on the model to light up the models complexion, outfit and expression. Rankin's contemporary interpretation used the same technique with lighting, however, made the hair and makeup more dramatic whilst covering the legs with bright tights. The images are very similar in regards to poses yet I personally feel Rankin escalated the colour palette and saturation too much. Bourdin subtly emphasises the model's sexuality purely through the pose and revealing leotard.
Herb Ritts
Herb Ritt's 'Fred with Tyres' transformed how men were perceived in the fashion industry. Following the photographic trend through the 70's of empowering the sexuality of women, this was then followed by the men of the 80's. The rough sexuality of the man against a 'manly' background became a catwalk hit and quickly was named 'one of the photos that changed fashion'. When Rankin re-produced his version lightheartedly named 'Dave with Tyres', the contrast was amplified in post production to reflect Ritt's photographic style.
Overall, these photographers demonstrate the massive transition over the years of fashion and beauty photography. Through my first semester studying digital image production, I will use these artists to reflect on and inspire me to use a wide variety of techniques and themes to produce the 'perfect' colour and black & white beauty images.
References
Seven Photographs That Changed
Fashion (2009). Rankin for BBC Four
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