Casting
- Untouched images needed from model - you must attain untouched photographs of the model, if you do not see them in person to start with, to see what you will really be working with. Polariods show a 'cast iron' image of the models face and can be the best way of seeing a fully natural and unphotoshopped photo.
- Even with professional models, always do castings - the emphasis is again on viewing the model's actual face. Professional models may have done huge campaigns and the images could have been unattractively photoshopped and you will not see the potential or vice versa - the model may fit your design more in a retouched image than in real life.
- Models must have a variety of poses - to be able to make your shoot interesting and easy (experienced models will switch poses between each shot in a photoshoot). This does mean a portfolio full of excellent poses demonstrates how hard it may be to get the model to be available. Less variety of images will mean the model may be easier to book but will need much more direction.
- Main London model agencies do release models for free - often the 'new faces' will only have a polaroid image and no portfolio so are looking for photographer and make up artists to aid their journey too.
- Choose the right model for your brief - for example, beauty imagery will need naturally beautiful features and your photographic techniques and stylists will emphasis these particular features subtly.
On Set and Directing
- It'll be fast paced to start with and the atmosphere will relax - setting up the shoot may be slightly stressed but the actual photoshoot has to be relaxed and positive. Otherwise, perspiration will start to show on models, makeup will get ruined and the models poses and expressions will be tense resulting in failed photos. Make sure everyone stays hydrated and cool.
- Only give models finished imagery - you do not want your name against untouched imagery as it does not demonstrate your hard work and polished final imagery and skill.
- Do not put too much pressure on yourself - this will reflect on the crew and models.
- Produce test shoots and plan - test shoots will aid you on the day of the photoshoot. Also, tear sheets will help the model understand what you want from them. Get into the studio and set up lighting beforehand and let the model relax (water is best for beauty!)
- Directing the model is crucial - as a photographer, you should be descriptive with your hands to aid the model. You can show the models the poses you desire through the camera and keep the model moving to prevent stiffness and a dull atmosphere prevailing into your final images.
- Talk to your model - strike up conversations and keep encourgement flowing. Be honest about their efforts, but not rude and as the photographer make sure your body language is open and positive.
- Finetune the photos - use tripod to get up close and personal to correct the details (must not be dependant on post-production).
- Catch the quiet moments - when the model is most relaxed can create this most beautiful shots.
Inside Vogue Japan - Mario Testino
This short film is a great example of the process photographers should undergo whilst producing research for a photoshoot. Testino uses books from Japan for inspiration for fashion styles and personalities of the models. Another process to follow would be questioning the public and being inspiried by street style. Testino gathers photos for other stylists and the models for guidance and Testino is very hands on with the makeup to produce the final image he desired for his concept. It is also key to keep the concept consistent.
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